Here are the steps we are going to go through during the process :
First step – Paint a rust coat
Second step – Hairspray technique on the actual kit paint
Third step – Chipping with the sponge technique
Fourth step – Paint the soldering trace
Fifth step – Various washes
Sixth step – Rust streaking, in this case with weathering pencils
Seventh step – Pigments
That looks like a lot, but they’re actually very easy and quick, so let’s start !
- Paints (mostly acrylics)
- Hairspray, any will do
- Oils paints for washes, streaks
- Pencils, that I used in that case for streaking
- Various modelling tools : airbrush, paintbrush, foam (the one from the Eduard aftermarkets is great !), various sharp tools (needle, toothpick …)
First step : Painting the rust
On a primed surface, here with regular black primer, paint with the airbrush a rusty coat. For that I used acrylic colors, 3 of them : dark, medium and light rust. I begin with the dark one, the whole surface, then patches of medium rust, and finishing with some light rust spots located on edges, corners and damages. The idea is to get something with some color variation.
Second step : The hairspray technique
We spray with the airbrush 2 coats of hairspray (the more coats you have, the bigger the chipping) and wait for about 10 minutes. When it feels dry to the touch, we now paint the actual color of the subjet, here blue and yellow. Here, the finner the coat, the easier it will be later one to remove it !
The fun part can then begin ! With a stiff brush moisted in water, I gently hit the surface and slowly the hairspray underneath reacts with water and goes away. The brush is used for the bigger chips, then the needle for the sharp ones. It is only a matter of taste then and how much you want the subject to be weathered !
Third step : small chipping with the sponge technique
This is a very easy and real quick to make smaller tears to give more variety and complexity to the weathering. I use some foam from the Eduard aftermaket kit that I dip in some acrylic paint. Then we have to remove the paint in excess on a paper tissue, until that moment when the foam barely leaves a trace when you apply it on the kit. It’s better to do it many times with little paint deposit than overdoing it.
Fourth step : The soldering trace
This part is nice as it brings some color and contrast to the subjet, very easily. Two steps here : airbrush with sand and almost black color to depict the heat effect, then paintbrush with silver on the actual trace. Being accurate is not really important, as this work on a battlefield in real life wouldn’t be …
Now it’s time for a glossy varnish coat to protect everything done so far.
Fifth step : Washes
With enamel products, or diluted oil paints, we’ll go for the washes. A first general one with a red brown color, to blend the whole work and highlight details in recess. This one will be wiped away with a tissue. The second one this time with rusty color (again, a medium and a light rust color). This time we’ll apply it where we want rust deposits, that is on the previously done wear and tears, damages, corners, edges … And we’ll blend it a few minutes later using a white spirit moistened stiff brush with gentle motion until we’re satisfied with what it looks like.
A mat coat of varnish will now seal it and help for the next steps.
Sixth step : streaking
There are various ways to do it, here I’ll use pencils, but oils or enamel products would do to ! The difference is that with pencils we’ll extend them using water instead of white spirit.
So very easy : with a sharp pencil we (very broadly) draw the streaks. it really doesn’t need to look like anything accurate, the shape will be given with a brush. I used three colors here (same story, dark, mudium and light rust). Then with a brush slightly moistened in water, we make some downward motion on the edge of the streaks, to give them their shape. If we want them to be more blurred, we can wipe them, still downward, with a broad brush slightly moistened in water.
And if we’re not happy with the result, it’s easy to remove everything with water and start again !
Seventh and final step : Pigments
We’re almost done ! Now just a bit of dry pigments, again rusty colors .. They give a nice touch as they are very mat, which provides a difference in texture. It’s a matter of taste, I applied them really lightly as they’re also very opaque, but focusing on heavily damaged areas of the subject.